Once we completed the Mesa Verde drive to the top towards the museum and finished the creek hike, we knew we had to tackle the loop drives to see the park’s main features. First, we chose the top loop because it was rumored to be more spectacular than the other. Boy, were we in for a surprise. My wife’s excited demeanor was contagious, and as she sat in the passenger seat enjoying the views, I played the role of her Uber driver, hoping for some great scenery myself.
Loop Drives:
The Mesa Top Loop and the Cliff Palace Loop Both loops have 11 pullouts. Thank goodness every time we reached one of those spots, we could park the car without waiting for a spot. Clearly, we came to the park on a good day.
The Top loop
The top loop is about 6 miles long, a one-way in and out route starting with the Pithouse, the vestiges of abandoned semi-subterranean homes. These homes allowed the Indians to move toward the center of the park, where the main attractions are located. The homes are well preserved with roofs built to protect from rain and sun, offering visitors a first-hand look at how the Indians started their life in this barren region. The nomadic people began permanent farmsteads around 550, planting squash, corn, and beans while hunting for various fruits to create a balanced diet. The Pithouse was a center of social and cultural gatherings for the Pueblo people.
Navajo Canyon Views are spectacular. Just park the car, walk towards the site, and prepare to be awed. Standing at about 7000 ft high, this area was the farming region for the Pueblo people. The rain from winter and summer thunderstorms, about 18 inches annually, seeps through the canyon, becoming a valuable resource for farming and animals. The southward plateau provides more sunlight, extending the farming season.
Square Tower House is a must-see, one of the earliest permanent 27-foot tall homes of the mesa. The construction is remarkable, reflecting the builders’ knowledge and skill. Words can’t do it justice; you have to see it to admire their capability with tools and materials to build such places amongst the rocks.
Pithouses and early Pueblo villages are where they started their first gatherings. These above-ground homes made of jacal (a wooden lattice covered with mud) demonstrate their best skills. Every location is well protected from Mother Nature, ensuring long-term preservation. The houses were dug into the ground with roofs built above, and the interesting part was that they came down from the roof to enter the house. It seems a bit complicated, but as families established, they dug deeper into the ground, creating more complex pithouses to store various necessities for survival.
The Sun Point Pueblo: This incredible 30-room village with a large kiva connected by a tunnel is mind-blowing. Even though it seems they didn’t stay there for more than 10 years, it makes you wonder why they decided to move away.
Sun View Point and Sun Temple are speculated by some to be worshipping places, still intact and open. Built to perfection, its 4-foot thick walls around the temple are incredible, and the open roof indicates it might have been used as an observatory or a lookout. We were simply blown away by what we saw. The architecture is incredible, and these places were solidly built with bricks and mud that have maintained their structure.
Our journey through the loops was filled with awe, admiration, and a bit of comedic relief as we navigated the ancient world, all while playing the roles of eager explorers and amateur historians.
Cliff Palace Loop
The Cliff Palace Loop Road is open from 8 am to sunset from late spring to December 1, or until the first significant snowfall (a.k.a. when Mother Nature decides it’s time). This 6-mile drive offers overlooks of various cliff dwellings, featuring 150 rooms and 21 kivas. Some speculate that this may have been an administrative hub where people gathered for various purposes, perhaps even ancient committee meetings that could have used an agenda.
The loop also lets you get closer to some of the dwellings for better views and photos, perfect for those “I was here” moments. I highly recommend taking these roads when there’s not much traffic because parking is limited. If parking is full, you have to keep moving, kind of like a vehicular game of musical chairs. The loop gives you access to ranger-guided tours of Cliff Palace and Balcony House, as well as the trailhead for the Soda Canyon Overlook Trail.
After almost 7 hours at the park, it was time for our next adventure: Moab, UT. Our legs were tired, our cameras full, and our minds blown by the history and beauty. Onward to more adventures and perhaps a much-needed nap in the car.
